This is my third post in a series of posts in which I analyze the clothing of the NBC series Hannibal. If you haven’t already read it, here is a link to my first post. In this post I will go over the changes of the suits from season one to season two. Please read my first post as it more fully details the styling of the suits, most of which is unchanged in the second season.
It’s been quite a while since my last Hannibal post, but fear not, I return now with my comprehensive analysis of the fantastic second season of NBC’s gruesome horror masterpiece. As you already know if you follow this blog, I recently had the opportunity to interview Mr. Antonio Pensato, the founder and owner of the bespoke clothier Antonio Valente. Antonio Valente is a little-publicized tailoring house in Toronto, Canada and in addition to many other film and TV projects, has provided clothing for the first and second seasons of Hannibal. My interview with Mr. Pensato was instrumental in allowing me to now speak with near-certain authority on many of the clothing pieces of Hannibal.
However, in addition to Antonio Valente, costume designer Christopher Hargadon also commission a couple items of clothing from the Toronto house Garrison Bespoke for the second season of Hannibal before switching over to them completely for the third season. Therefore, some of the suits in this post will have been made by Antonio Valente, and some will have been made by Garrison Bespoke.
I don’t plan on doing a detailed second part to this post as I did with season one. I doubt anyone other than myself was very interested in the fabrics and screenshots of the show are so dark it strains the eye to look at them. However, if you have any specific questions, just sound off in the comments and I’ll do my best to answer them. So, without further adieu….
The Suits of Antonio Valente
Most of the styling of the suits in season two remain unchanged from the previous season. However some details have come to light due to the information provided by Mr. Pensato. While the basic styling of the suits remains the same (double vents, peak lapels, 2-button front, flapped pockets with a ticket pocket, single breasted vest), some details do fluctuate. For example, some suits in both seasons one and two have four cuff buttons, whereas other suits have five cuff buttons. Also, some suits were made with straight pockets and others with slanted pockets. Although the reasoning behind these decisions is beyond me, Mr. Pensato explained that the decision can be based on any number of factors, from the fabric of the suit to the lighting of the scene, to the height of the other actors.
Season two brings us a new design of waistcoat from Antonio Valente. Altough the five button vests seen in season one do make many appearances, there are three suits that are made with a double breasted vest.
The vests are made in a 6×3 fastening pattern where the buttons are angled outward creating a “V” formation. A unique aspect of these vests is that they are made with what appears to be a shawl collar. However, upon closer inspection, there is actually a small notch near the shoulder seam (see the photo above). I wish these vests were made with a true shawl collar, but since the notch is only visible when worn sans-jacket, I don’t mind it too terribly. The vests are cut with a straight bottom.
A vest with a similar button arrangement as those in season two.
Another detail of note is the inclusion of contrasting buttonholes on some of the flannel suits in this series. Below is a photo of a flannel suit from the episode Futamono. Notice the lapel buttonhole is made in a light blue thread, which echoes the blue in the suit fabric.
Other than these two details, the suits remain relatively unchanged from season one. Overall, by my reckoning, Antonio Valente made twenty suits for season two, however some may have been carried over from the first season. In addition, the styling of the suits from Antonio Valente and Garrison Bespoke is very similar and in some cases it is very difficult to tell which maker made what suit. Because of this I may have accredited some suits to Antonio Valente which were made by Garrison Bespoke or vice-versa. According to Antonio Pentosa, there were a few multiples made but “just one or two.”
The Suits of Garrison Bespoke
Garrison Bespoke is another high-quality bespoke clothier located in Toronto. Brought on in the second season of Hannibal, Garrison Bespoke became the lead costume maker for the third season. The main details of the suits are identical to the those made by Antonio Valente, but a few minor details are quite different if you know where to look.
As you can see in the photos above, the shape of the lapel is very different between the suits made by Garrison Bespoke (left) and the suits made by Antonio Valente (right). Antonio Valente makes a very sharp peak which extends quite far beyond the collar. Garrison Bespoke, on the other hand, makes a peak which is more rounded and barely extends beyond the collar.
Another detail, not visible in these photos, is the shape of the breast pocket. Antonio Valente makes a breast pocket that curves up at the end, sometimes called a Barchetta pocket, whereas Garrison Bespoke makes their pockets straight.
One thing you may have noticed fro the previous photo is that one of the suits by Garrison Bespoke is made in a 3-roll-2 style. What this means is that the jacket is cut as if it were a 3-button suit, however when the lapel is pad stitched, it is rolled to the second button so the silhouette is that of a 2-button suit.
The creation of this style is accredited to American Ivy League schools. When the 3-button jacket began to wane in popularity and the 2-button jacket became fashionable, many students at these universities, rather than by all new clothes, had their tailors press their 3-button jackets as if they were 2-button jackets. This lead to the creation of the 3-roll-2 style and is why you can see an exposed buttonhole on the lapels of these jackets. Recently, the 3-roll-2 has had a resurgence in popularity, especially after 2008, when Tom Ford dressed James Bond exclusively in 3-roll-2 suits in the film Quantum of Solace.
A note must be made about the vests of the garrison Bespoke suits. Garrsion Bespoke, like Antonio Valente, made two styles of vests for season two. The first is almost identical to the vests from season one; single breasted, five button, standard bottom. However, Garrison Bespoke also made some single breasted, lapelled vests for this season, examples of which you can see above. Unlike typical vests, these combine a shawl lapel, usually seen on double breasted vests, with a single breasted front. Despite this unusual combination, I believe the final look to be quite elegant while still being unique.
The standard style of vest is also a bit unique when made by Garrison bespoke. As you can see from the photos above, albeit more clearly in the leftmost photo, the vests seem to have a border around the edge. The vest in the left photo is meant to be an odd vest and so this effect was played up a bit more. I believe this is due to the tailors pressing the vest and the facing perfectly evenly. I’ll explain what I mean by this. When a vest or any other garment is made, usually the tailor will roll the outside of the garment a little bit under when they are pressing the garment. They do this so that the lining doesn’t show on the outside when the garment is worn. However in some cases, such as when there’s a contrast lining the designer wants to be shown, the garment is pressed without rolling the outside under. This means that a viewer will be able to see both the outside and the lining simultaneously when the garment is worn. I believe this is what has been done with the vests by garrison bespoke. The reason why the lining doesn’t show as much on the suit vests compared to the odd vest is, to my eyes, because the lining so closely matches the color of the fabric, it doesn’t stick out as much.
There are a few other differences between the suits by Garrison Bespoke and the suits by Antonio Valente. The suits by Garrison seem to have stronger sleeve heads and a more defined shoulder, the lining is not as loud as the suits by Antonio Valente, and the sleeves have a consistent number of buttons (four). The only other thing I’ll mention is that one of Garrison Bespoke’s suits was auctioned off on June 18, 2015. The suit was one worn in the twelfth episode, Tome-Wan. You can view the listing below.
This concludes my third Hannibal post. I hope to round off the series with just one more post covering the third season. That post will most likely be very brief, half of the season see’s Hannibal behind bars, but I will focus on the first half of the season, which is set on Florence. Until then, good eating!
Many thanks to Screencapped.net. Their resources have proved invaluable in the composition of this article.
UPDATE 12/9/15: Mads Mikkelsen revealed in several interviews that he actually stole the grey and red suit from the set following the conclusion of season three. The following response is taken from an interview conducted by Paste Magazine
“In this case, I stole one of the very beautiful suits,” he said. “I stole a grey and red suit. And after a week, I got a phone call because the production really wanted to give me one of the suits as a gift and they asked me which one I would like. I said, ‘The grey and red one,’ and they said, ‘We’ll send it to you.’ I said, ‘That’s okay, I already have it.’ So, that turned out really well. I didn’t turn out to be a thief.”
Read the full article here: http://www.pastemagazine.com/articles/2015/12/mads-mikkelsen-talked-about-a-possible-season-4-of.html