Quick Thought 3: Buttons and Shout-Out!

This is part of a cross-blog collaboration to create a replica MTC uniform as seen in the British drama Foyle’s War. All previous posts can be found under the page entitled “The MTC Uniform: A Foyle’s War Costume Collaboration.”

The MTC Uniform: A Foyle's War Costume Collaboration

Warning: mini rant ahead!

I re-discovered that military button retail website I had lost a few weeks back and was debating whether or not purchasing them would be worth the cost. I also found another webpage, where the user posts pictures of buttons available for purchase, but the site doesn’t have a great layout (not even a purchase page or visible cart!), so I’ve been waiting to hear back from the admin as to how one actually places orders. Those are also large MTTC buttons (26mm), which means the rank would be inaccurate, and we’d have to settle for mismatching them with small (17mm) MTC ones from the other site – something that sounds inconsequential, but is just inaccurate enough to be irritating.

All this happened before I came to an unpleasant realization: The buttons on Sam’s uniform are actually ATS buttons, and not MTC or even MTTC. ATS buttons are 

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Quick Thought 3: Buttons and Shout-Out!

Quick Thought 2:

This is part of a cross-blog collaboration to create a replica MTC uniform as seen in the British drama Foyle’s War. All previous posts can be found under the page entitled “The MTC Uniform: A Foyle’s War Costume Collaboration.”

The MTC Uniform: A Foyle's War Costume Collaboration

Here are the fabric swatches my mother brought back from New York.

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We are still keeping an eye out for similar fabrics in the more immediate vicinity (i.e. Dallas….Houston….. Austin… Wherever our adventures take us, really.)

The trick is finding a fabric similar to the original, considering there were at least two versions of am’s MTC uniform. One was featured primarily in the earliest episodes, and seems more brown.

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The other sometimes looks khaki and sometimes straight up olive.

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Quick Thought 2:

Days 3-4

This is part of a cross-blog collaboration to create a replica MTC uniform as seen in the British drama Foyle’s War. All previous posts can be found under the page entitled “The MTC Uniform: A Foyle’s War Costume Collaboration.”

The MTC Uniform: A Foyle's War Costume Collaboration

Day 3

   Given the somewhat obscure nature of the uniform stateside; I predicted that we will have to order the originals from a military hardware seller in the United Kingdom. After a good 2 hours of trolling the darkest recesses of the internet, I was able to find a British website with MTC buttons in both 26 and 17 mm sizes… but at crazy prices. This is clearly going to be a more expensive endeavor than predicted.

Meanwhile, in New York City, my mother asked me for a hopping assignment to keep her busy while my father was in his business meeting. I sent her photos of the buttons and pins we’ll need.

She subsequently spent the afternoon in the garment district looking for anything useful. She didn’t find buttons, but she did find some suit wool similar in shade to that in the original uniform.

Day 4

 …

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Days 3-4

Hannnibal: Part Two

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This is my second post in a series of posts in which I analyze the clothing of the NBC series Hannibal. If you haven’t already read it, here is a link to my first post. In this post I will be breaking down the fabric of each suit Hannibal wears in the first season.

As the styling of all the suits are consistent, there isn’t much to left to talk about except the different fabrics, all of which are quite unique. Below I will present photos of each of the fifteen suits Mikkelsen wears in the first season of Hannibal. I will exclude the two suits which differ in style as I’ve already briefly discussed them in my first post and, frankly, they’re not that interesting. I won’t be going over the details of each suit again as I’ve covered that previously, but I encourage you to keep the details in mind as the photos below may show them better than the photos I’ve already inserted.

1) The Blue/Orange Plaid Flannel

bluebrown plaid 2  bluebrown plaid 1

The fabric of this suit is a plaid in what looks like blue, brown, orange, and possibly grey threads. Based on the texture and rather soft definition of the pattern I’d guess that it’s a flannel suit. This would make sense as Hannibal wears a couple of flannel suits throughout the series. This particular suit is seen the most times in the season. It appears in seven episodes total: Potage, Oeuf, Entrée, Sorbet, Fromage, Buffet Froid, and Roti.

bluebrown plaid 1  bluebrown plaid 1

Hannibal always wears this suit with either a white, light yellow, or light blue shirt and couples it with a red-based, yellow-based, or blue-based tie. The light-colored shirt contrasts against the dark suit well enough to complement Mikkelsen’s skin tone, and the tie color helps bring out the different colored threads in the suit.

2) The Brown/Grey Plaid

browngrey check 1 browngrey check 3

This suit first appears in the second episode and lasts until about halfway through the season. The fabric this suit is made of is a plaid in taupe, brown, and grey thread with a light blue overcheck. The fabric looks to be a standard worsted with a smooth finish. This suit appears in four episodes: Amuse-Bouche, Potage, Oeuf, and Coquilles.

browngrey check 1 browngrey check 2

This suit is usually worn with either a blue or yellow shirt. I personally think the blue looks better as it picks up the blue in the overcheck, yet the yellow shirt doesn’t look bad. Hannibal often selects a yellow tie when wearing a yellow shirt, and a red tie when wearing a blue shirt, however he does sometimes wear a blue/silver tie with a blue shirt.

3) The Brown/Orange Plaid

brownorange suit 4 Fromage  brownorange suit 5

The Brown/Orange Plaid first appeared in the final scene of the sixth episode, Entrée. Unfortunately the suit couldn’t be properly seen due to the dark lighting so we had to wait two episodes to finally see it in full in the episode Fromage. This fabric may be a flannel, I’m not sure. In certain scenes, depending on the lighting, it looks like it may or may not be fuzzy, but my best guess is that it’s a smooth worsted. The fabric is  a dark brown with what I would describe as a double windowpane in orange. There is an overcheck in either light blue or tan, it’s difficult to tell. All in all this suit appears in four episodes: Entrée, Fromage, Buffet Froid, and Roti.

brownorange suit 1  brownorange suit 1

Hannibal wears a variety of shirts with this suit, the most common ones are cream, blue, and burnt orange. Regardless of his shirt color, Hannibal usually selects a tie that contains some orange. This serves to create harmony between the tie and the suit. Because both items usually have such strong patterns, there is a huge potential for visual conflict; the shared colors in the tie, suit, and shirt help smooth out the conflict and make the whole ensemble palatable to the eye.

4) The Dark Brown Plaid

dark brown suit 2 Coquilles  dark brown suit 1

This suit is a tragedy. Not only is it only seen in three episodes (Coquilles, Fromage, and Savoreux), the lighting of the show is so dark that you can barely see the pattern of the fabric! To the best of my knowledge, the fabric is a plaid comprised of very dark brown, a lighter brown, and possibly black or dark grey.

dark brown suit 1  dark brown suit 2

Hannibal only wears this suit with a burnt-orange shirt and a rust-colored tie.

5) The Flannel Windowpane

flannel windowpaine 3  flannel windowpaine 1

The fabric of this suit is very similar to the fabric of suit #6 in the sense that both are windowpanes. However, the fabric of this suit is a grey flannel with only a simple windowpane in light blue (this is different from the next suit, which has a more complex windowpane). The suit is seen in three episodes: Coquilles, Buffet Froid, and Roti. Unfortunately, it is in this suit that Mikkelsen makes the mistake of buttoning the lower button of his jacket. Mikkelsen consistently does with his odd jackets, but this is the only time he does it with a suit.

flannel windowpaine 2 Coquilles  flannel windowpaine 4

What I find interesting about this suit is that the windowpane can apper to change slightly in hue depending on what color shirt Mikkelsen is wearing. If Mikkelsen is wearing a white shirt, the windowpane looks to be a clear blue. However is Mikkelsen in wearing a blue shirt, the windowpane appears a bit more grey.  Hannibal usually pairs this suit with a white or blue shirt and a red tie.

6) The Blue Windowpane

blue windowpaine 2 Fromage  blue windowpaine 1

Like suit #5, suit #6 is also a windowpane. However what makes this suit unique is that the fabric actually features two windowpanes. The base color of the fabric is a greenish-blue over which runs a blue windowpane bordered on both sides by black, and a dark blue windowpane with no border. This suit appears in Fromage, Trou Normand, and Buffet Froid.

blue windowpaine 3 Trou Normand  blue windowpaine 1

Hannibal usually wears this suit with a light blue or pale white shirt. The colors of the ties vary but include gold, orange, white, and red. The pocket handkerchief is usually a pale blue.

7) The Grey/Green Plaid

blackgrey plaid Coquilles  blackgrey plaid 1

Another victim of poor lighting, this suit only appears twice in the series, both times in horrible circumstances. The color of the fabric is very hard to pin down, but I’ve decided that it has a dark grey background with a green and black plaid over it. It appears to be a worsted, but if I’m right about the color and pattern it would make more sense for it to be a flannel.

blackgrey plaid 3 Fromage  blackgrey plaid 4

As this suit is only worn twice, there isn’t much variation in the shirts and ties. Hannibal wears the same white shirt both times the suit appears. In one appearance he pairs the suit with an orange tie and in another with a burgundy tie.

8) The Dark Grey Plaid

greyblack plaid 3  greyblack plaid 1

This is another worsted plaid suit in what looks like grey, dark grey, blue, and either taupe or light grey. Hannibal only wears this suit twice, once to visit Bedelia and once when serving her dinner. It’s a shame we don’t see more of this suit as I consider it one of the best of the season. It manages to strike a perfect balance between brazen and subdued without feeling stuffy or overly-flamboyant. This suit appears in two episodes overall, Sorbet and Savoreux.

greyblack plaid 2  greyblack plaid 1 Sorbet

In both appearances, Hannibal wears a grey shirt and a silver-based tie. Hannibal wears a darker grey shirt in Sorbet than he does in Savoreux, which creates a rather monochromatic look when he visits Bedelia. However, in Savoreux Hannibal’s shirt is a bit lighter which, to my tastes, creates a much better ensemble.

9) The Black/Grey Check

blackgrey check 2  blackgrey check 1

One of my favorite suits in the series, the Black/Grey check is subtle enough that most men could pull it off without looking out of place in a modern environment. Perhaps this subtlety is why it only appears in two episodes (Fromage and Savoreux). The fabric is a flannel check in alternating grey and dark grey.

killing suit  blackgrey check 3 Fromage

Although I’m not certain, I think this is the same suit that Hannibal wear under his “killing suit.” It’s very difficult to tell from the few scenes in which we see Hannibal “at work,” but the suit underneath his “killing suit” is definitely a dark grey which makes the Black/Grey check a likely candidate.

10) The Green/Red Check

greenred suit 2  greenred check 1

One of the more garish suits of the series, and one of my least favorite, the Green/Red Check seems more fit for a Christmas elf than a celebrated psychiatrist/serial killer.  Either way, the costumer decided that it would fit Hannibal and so, in the interest of completion, I must cover it here. The suit is a green flannel with a red check on top. This suit is only seen in two episodes, Trou Normand and Releves.

greenred check 4  greenred check 5 Trou Normand

This suit is the only one to be worn in the exact same way both times it is seen. Both times he wears this suit, Hannibal wears the same cream shirt and the same silver paisley tie. I wouldn’t think that the scenes in which Hannibal wears this suit were filmed at the same time, Trou Normand and Releves are two episodes apart, but I can’t think of any other reason as to why he would be dressed identically in both episodes.

11) The Blue Plaid

greyblue plaid  greyblue plaid 2 Amuse-Bouche

Only seen in one episode, the Blue Plaid is quite possibly Hannibal’s most subdued suit. The pattern is hardly noticeable on screen and when it is noticed it is sometimes mistaken for the Blue/Orange Flannel Plaid. The suit is a worsted blue with a plaid in what looks like either grey or brown and only appears once in the second episode, Amuse-Bouche.

greyblue plaid 3  greyblue plaid 1

An interesting detail about this suit is that the buttons on the jacket are not horn. Although the vest has regular horn buttons, the jacket is made with covered buttons. See the picture above to observe them. Other suits in this season may have the same detail, but to my knowledge this is the only suit that does. This suit is also one of they very few with which Hannibal does not wear a wide-spread collar. With almost all his other suits Hannibal wears wide-spread collars and ties tied in huge Balthus knots. However with this suit his collar is a more classic spread and the tie is probably tied in a Half-Windsor. This leads me to believe that the shirt was made by someone other than Antonio Valente.

12) The Striped Suit

striped suit 2 Sorbet  striped suit 4

Okay, I lied. The Striped Suit is a variation in the normal design of Hannibal’s suits. It is made in the same style as the suit from Apertif except that it is not worn with a vest. Notch lapels separate this suit from the rest, otherwise it has the same double vents, pockets, and cut as the others. This is the only two-piece suit Hannibal wears in this season. However, I am including this suit here because of its interesting fabric. This is the only striped suit that Hannibal wears in the first season. It is a black or very dark grey worsted with alternating stripes in blue and pink. Yes, pink. The Striped Suit only appears in the seventh episode, sorbet.

striped suit 3  striped suit 1

Hannibal wears this suit with a dark purple shirt, the only of that color in the season, and a purple paisley tie. The shirt is one of few that has a classic spread collar instead of a wide-spread collar and, just like with suit #11, the tie is likely tied in a Half-Windsor. This suit was not made by Antonio Valente and, like the Apertif suit, was probably made by Brioni.

13) The Blue Check

brownblue check 1 Sorbet  blueplaid

The thirteenth suit in our listing, the Blue Check only appeas in one episode, Sorbet, and only for  few seconds. Seen only when Hannibal is selecting a recipe for a victim (quite literally), this fabric is a dark brown with a medium blue check. I wouldn’t be surprised if there were also some grey or taupe woven in with the brown as the fabric looks rather flat and without depth.  Hannibal wears this suit with a shirt in white, light green, and pink stripes; and a gold tie with a series a patterned circles.

14) The Brown Plaid

basic brown plaid 1 Buffet Froid  basic brown 2

This one-off suit was seen in the tenth episode Buffet Froid. The suit is a medium brown worsted with an interesting check in dark brown and tan. What makes this check interesting is that instead of having two vertical lines to two horizontal lines or three vertical lines to three horizontal lines, it has two vertical (tan) lines to three horizontal (dark brown) Lines.

basic brown 3  basic brown 4

Hannibal wears this suit with a cream shirt and orange tie.

15) The Orange Flannel

orangeblue flannel 7  orangeblue flannel 6

The last suit of season one, the Orange Flannel is only seen in the penultimate episode, Releves. Due to the lighting the pattern is quite difficult to make out, but it seems to be a brown base with a fancy check. The check is a symmetrical 2×2 (two vertical lines by two horizontal lines) in medium blue and each line is bordered by a dark grey line on either side.

orange blue flannel 1  orangeblue flannel 5 releves

Hannibal wears this suit with a pale blue shirt with a faint self stripe. The shirt has the usual cutaway collar and scalloped cuffs of his others and it is worn with a brown paisley tie. Of all Hannibal’s suits, I think this one fits the best. Perhaps it’s just the way we see it in it’s few scenes, but the back of this suit looks especially clean. In addition,  the sleeves are short enough to show some cuff.

orangeblue flannel 4  orangeblue flannel 6

This concludes the first half of my series on Hannibal. In my next post I will delve into the second season which, from a sartorial standpoint, is much more interesting than the first. Not only does Hannibal wear suits similar to those in the first season, he also incorporates more subdued suits and some very beautiful lapelled waistcoats into his wardrobe.

UPDATE 6/25/15: It was announced today that NBC will not be renewing Hannibal for a fourth season. This is most likely due to low ratings, but Bryan Fuller has stated that all other options are being considered for the future of Hannibal. There is a possibility that Amazon will pick up the show as they already hold the streaming rights to it. In the meantime here is a petition for NBC to renew Hannibal.

Many thanks to Screencapped.net. Their resources have proved invaluable in the composition of this article.

Hannnibal: Part Two

A Few Announcments

Hello readers,

In my efforts to further organize my blog, I have created a menu located at the top right on my blog. From this menu you can navigate to a number of pages which will contain links to other posts. I plan to use this series of organization to group together my series so that all related posts are in the same place. Sorry about two non-content posts in a row, but I am working on my second Hannibal posts and it should be up within a few days.

A Few Announcments

The MTC Uniform: A Foyle’s War Costume Collaboration

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I am pleased to announce today the beginning of a cross-blog collaboration between myself and my good friend Erinonpoint. When Erin first introduced me to Foyle’s War, a British WWII detective drama, I was not immediately astounded by it. Quite honestly it moves a bit slow for me and the episodes are too long. Undoubtedly though my un-enthusiasm is due more to my short attention-span than to any fault of the show. A detailed review can be found here. Either way, I became more interested when Erin approached me with the idea of re-creating the MTC uniform worn by the series’ heroine Sam Stewart.

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Replicating costumes from film or television is not new to me. Two years ago I completed a replica of Benedict Cumberbatch’s coat from Sherlock which, although it wasn’t perfect by any stretch, captured the look well enough for my tastes. With the MTC (Mechanized Transport Corps) uniform I hope to capture even greater accuracy. Erin has created a blog and will be recording our progress in it. I hope to find a way to attach a permanent link somewhere on my home page, but until I do I’ll be reposting all updates on this blog.

The MTC Uniform: A Foyle’s War Costume Collaboration

The MTC Uniform: A Foyle’s War Costume Collaboration

Hannibal: Part One

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When Hannibal first premiered on NBC, I was initially attracted by Mads Mikkelsen in the titular role. However, I soon came to realize that the clothing of the series was superb. Most crime procedurals and serial-killer-dramas are rather drab and lifeless. Hannibal, on the other hand, is vibrant and excitedly colored and, although the palette of the show is very dark, is a beauty to behold. All the environments are carefully controlled to make each frame look like a painting rather than a television show which makes Hannibal,  despite its small following and overall lack of viewership, one of the best shows on television. With the third season premiering on June 4, I figured it would be an appropriate time to look back at the previous two seasons and present Hannibal‘s wardrobe in an analytical context.  I’ve wanted to write about Hannibal’s suits since I saw the first episode, but due to the lack of information and access to the series on either a streaming service or DVD, I was unable to collect the information I felt I needed. Luckily,  Amazon has now added Hannibal to their Prime service which makes it available to stream instantly and for free to all Prime subscribers. I will be presenting my analysis of Hannibal in a series. The first post will focus on explaining the styling of the suits and the exceptions to the rules. In my next post I will be looking at the individual suits and analyzing their fabric. For brevity’s sake I will only be looking at Mikkelsen’s character of Hannibal Lecter. Although his casual wear is very interesting, I will only be analyzing his suits. Perhaps in the future I’ll do a post on his various sports coats, sweaters, and odd trousers.

First off, before I get into the rest of my post, I’d like to correct a couple of misconceptions. First and most importantly, it has been floated on numerous discussion boards that Hannibal’s suits were made by Tom Ford. I’m sorry this is wrong. All of Mikkelsen’s tailored clothing for the first and second seasons was made by the Toronto house Antonio Valente. Antonio Valente is consistently reputed to produce the finest suits in Toronto. In addition to Hannibal, Antonio Valente has provided clothing for other TV and movies such as the miniseries The Kennedy’s, Murdoch Mysteries, and The Music Man, which starred Matthew Broderick.  Now, there were three suits which were not made by Antonio Valente, but I’ll get into that later. Second: Mads Mikkelsen is Danish, therefore his name is not pronounced like it looks it should be. “Mads” is pronounced with a very soft ‘d’ almost like “mass” and Mikkelsen is pronounced “miguelsen.” Don’t ask me why because I don’t know, but that’s how they do things in the Netherlands and I think it courteous to pronounce someone’s name that way it was meant to be said. Besides, we all know what Hannibal does to those he thinks are rude.

Onward.

All of Hannibal’s suits for the first season, except three, are made in only one style. What really makes the clothing remarkable though, is the fabric. Nowadays, most suits are either black, grey, or blue. If you’re lucky you might get a mini-herringbone or a self stripe, but you’ll never see a bold Prince of Wales check or a Glen Plaid. Hannibal, on the other hand, is only seen once in a solid-colored suit, instead opting for loud plaids, checks, and stripes. As the only proper way to appreciate this visual festival is to see it, I will attempt to make this post as picture-heavy as possible. I encourage you to click on and enlarge the photos so you can really see the details and patterns.

flannel windowpaine         tuxedo 2 Sorbet I’ll start with the exceptions. In the first episode, Apertif, we only see Hannibal in one suit. The suit is a rather light blue, almost aqua-marine, worsted three-piece with a very light blue windowpane. Characterized by notch lapels, double vents, and a two button front, this suit is only seen in Apertif. In common with the other suits in the series, this suit has flapped slanted pockets and a ticket pocket. Placed directly above the normal pocket on the right side of the suit, the ticket pocket was originally used for exactly what it sounds like, to hold train tickets. When people stopped riding trains as often, the ticket pocket gradually faded out of fashion. Over the past couple of years the ticket pocket has experienced a resurgence in popularity, albeit due to style and not functionality. Still, I am glad to see this detail re-emerging in modern clothing.

light blue suit 6 Apertif light blue suit 2 Although we don’t see much of the suit trousers, the pants appear to be flat front, possess a lower-than-traditional rise, and fasten with an extended tab. They may be made with buckle side adjusters. The tapered legs are hemmed without cuffs and with a medium break. light blue suit 5 light blue suit 1

This is suit was not made by Antonio Valente, rather it is an off-the-rack suit by Brioni. I’ll get my critiques out of the way now. First off, the vest is far too big in the chest. In the photo above you can see how the vest ripples underneath the jacket. A properly fitted vest should be almost skin-tight and should remain very close to the body even when sitting down. Second, all the pants are made with a modern rise. This means that the waistband is only barely covered by the vest. Unfortunately, the pants are not held up with suspenders as they should be when wearing a three piece suit. As a result, the pants tend to sag down exposing the shirt between the vest and the waistband. See the photo above to observe this occurrence. The sleeves on this jacket re also quite long. Although the “normal” suits in this season do have longer sleeves than is currently fashionable, the sleeves on this jacket extend into Mikkelsen’s palm.

grey suit 2 Potage  grey suit 1

The second suit not made by Antonio Valente differs dramatically from the other suits in the season. Not only is it the only solid-colored suit in the series, it also lacks pocket flaps and has slim notch lapels. Just like the previous suit, this grey suit is only seen once, in the third episode Potage. These two suits and one other, which I’ll cover later, are the only ones that were made by someone other than Antonio Valente. According to Mr. Pensato (founder and owner of Antonio Valente), the three ‘outlier’ suits were only selected because the costume designer, Christopher Hargadon, liked the fabric and couldn’t find a similar one anywhere else.

browngrey check 3 brownblue check 1 Sorbet blackgreyplaid 6 blackgrey plaid 3 Fromage

The style of all the other suits in the season is constant. All of them are three piece suits with a two button front, peak lapels, flapped pockets with a ticket pocket, double vents, and a slightly chopped hem. All the vests have a five button front and two lower welt pockets. Some vests may also have two upper breast pockets, but I am not sure. Unfortunately, Mikkelsen repeatedly commits the faux pas of buttoning the last button of his vests. Although these vests are made so that buttoning the last button doesn’t distort the vest, tradition dictates that the last button should always be left open. All the trousers are made in the same style, flat front, two back pockets, buckle side adjusters, low rise, tapered legs, and slanted side pockets. The waistband is fastened with an extended tab, which may either end in a clasp or a button and the trousers are hemmed with a full break and no cuff. Overall these suits have a very Neapolitan feel. The double vents, slanted pockets, chopped hem, and tapered trousers are all trademarks of the Neapolitan style. This was an intentional effect coordinated between costume designer Michael Hargadon and Antonio Pensato to give the character of Hannibal a foreign, European feel.

suit button hieght
Notice how high the fastening point is. It is almost above his elbows.

Other than the lower rise of the trousers, the only other modern detail is the button stance of the jackets. Rather than being placed at the natural waist, the fastening button is placed above the waist. This creates the appearance of longer legs, which in turn makes Hannibal appear taller and more menacing. Usually a high button stance would come with the downside of exposing shirt beneath the fastening button and the trouser waistband, luckily, because all the suits have a vest, this problem is avoided completely.

The buckle side adjusters are visible here as is the tag from Garrison Bespoke.
The buckle side adjusters are visible here as is the tag from Antonio Valente

By speaking with Antonio Pensato, I learned that the slight imperfections with the suits (pants too long, sleeves a bit too long, last button buttoned…) were all intentional. Pensato stated that nobody trusts a man who is perfectly dressed so these imperfections were included to make Hannibal seem more human. In addition, as a psychiatrist, Hannibal wants his patients to trust him, his clothing being less than impeccable allows him to appear more approachable.

Might might comment that the sleeves of the jackets are too long, however I would disagree. It wasn’t always the norm to show shirt cuff beneath the jacket sleeve. With the exception of this first suit, Hannibal’s sleeves are not excessively long. They don’t go as far as his palms and they only extend as far as his shirt sleeves. Although I would much rather he show some cuff, it is not necessarily incorrect for him not to.

The cuff of the jacket is shown here. Notice the last button is left undone.
The cuff of the jacket is shown here. Notice the last button is left undone.

An interesting detail of Hannibal’s suits is that the cuffs were either made with four or five buttons depending on the pattern of the fabric. In addition the last button is always left open. The practice of leaving the last button undone has recently come about as a way to “announce” that your suit is bespoke. Before the advent of online custom clothiers, all ready-to-wear suits were made with the sleeves sewn shut, which made them much easier to hem. Functional cuffs or Surgeon’s cuffs were reserved for bespoke or custom clothing as they cannot be hemmed after they are made.

A picture of an unbuttoned Surgeon's Cuff.
A picture of an unbuttoned Surgeon’s Cuff.

This is the basic styling of all the suits in the series. In my next post I’ll go over each suit individually and discuss their fabric and when they appear in the series. Stay tuned for more “delectable” posts!

Special thanks to Antonio Pensato, without whom this post would have been in error.

All credit for the photos goes to screencapped.net, their resources have been invaluable in the composition of this post.

Hannibal: Part One